Dahlia Growing 101

Dahlia Growing 101

We've spent thousands of hours taking a deep dive into the dahlia world, and have summarized the most frequently asked questions for new growers below. This is just the tip of the sprout (aka the cotyledon) of information you'll discover about growing dahlias. We hope this simplified version is both helpful and underwhelming for you on your gardening journey. Let's grow, friends!

ORDERS + UNBOXING

Do you ship internationally?

No, due to US Dept. of Agriculture requirements, we are unable to accommodate International Shipping at this time.

When is my order shipping?

All orders will be shipped via USPS Flat Rate Priority Mail. Tubers will be shipped after all risk of freezing temperatures have passed, typically in late-April for Montana.

Okay, but can you ship my order earlier?

Unfortunately, No. We are not willing to risk mushy tubers on arrival because of a freeze during transport. Montana is a very unpredictable friend, and our dahlias too precious to lose.

I received my order, but I'm not ready to plant. Help?!

There are two options if you cannot plant your dahlia tubers yet.

Leave them in their shipping bag, in a cool, dry, and dark place. Check on them occasionally to make sure they're not drying out or molding.

OR... our personal favorite...

Pot them up in containers or ziplock bags, to give them a jump start on the growing season. Many growers also choose this method to propagate dahlias via cuttings.

Using gently moistened soil, stick the body of your tuber (aka the "big end") into the dirt, and place under lights or in a window. The crown (spot where eyes & buds are located) should be out of the dirt.

Your dahlia will start to form buds or shoots and develop roots... which will lessen the chance of rot when planted outdoors!

I unboxed my dahlia tubers, now what?

If your zone IS NOT ready for planting, pot them up in containers or ziplock bags, to give them a jump start on the growing season. Many growers also choose this method to propagate dahlias via cuttings.

HOW TO PRE-SPROUT: Using gently moistened soil, stick the body of your tuber (aka the "big end") into the dirt, and place under lights or in a window. The crown (spot where eyes & buds are located) should be out of the dirt.

Your dahlia will start to form buds or shoots and develop roots... which will lessen the chance of rot when planted outdoors!

If your zone IS ready for planting, scroll down to the "Growing Dahlias 101" section.

How do I pre-sprout my dahlia tubers?

Pot them up in containers or ziplock bags, to give them a jump start on the growing season. Many growers also choose this method to propagate dahlias via cuttings.

Using gently moistened soil, stick the body of your tuber (aka the "big end") into the dirt, and place under lights or in a window. The crown (spot where eyes & buds are located) should be out of the dirt.

Your dahlia will start to form buds or shoots and develop roots... which will lessen the chance of rot when planted outdoors!

DAHLIA TUBER FAQ'S

My tubers are different shapes & sizes, is that normal?

Absolutely! Each variety can have their own little trait when it comes to tuber production. Some are long and skinny, while others are tiny and perfectly round. Pot tubers are particularly ugly, with their gnarled small bodies and strange forms - yet produce the best sprouts for dahlia cuttings, yield a very healthy plant, and are easier to store.

Dahlia tuber size also doesn't matter. In fact, it's thought very large tubers don't have great production, or seem to grow as well as their smaller counterparts. Plus they're a bit of a nuisance to handle and store. Some folks even cut the large ones in half... and no, you can't get another dahlia plant this way ;)

I can't find the eye, what do I do?

Place your dahlia tuber in lightly moistened soil and leave it in a warm, 70°F+ environment. Most tubers take 2-4 weeks to eye up, but some just take their sweet time (up to 2 months).

If during this process, you notice the crown beginning to develop a round bulge, with no visible sprout and plenty of roots - your dahlia tuber is most likely blind and just trying to push growth. This tuber will not grow into a dahlia, and unfortunately can't be saved.

Why is there cinnamon on my tuber?

Dahlia tubers are sometimes dusted or have their cut ends dipped in cinnamon to help prevent fungal issues and mold growth during storage + transportation. Cinnamon acts as a natural antibacterial + antifungal, which offers another layer of tuber protection for our growers. The cinnamon won't affect growth, and may actually help boost root production! Not to mention... they smell AMAZING! :)

The sprout broke off, is that okay?

Totally fine! In fact, two to three new sprouts will shoot near the edge of the broken one. Folks who take dahlia cuttings use this trait to their advantage! :)

Why is the bottom cut off of my tuber?

The bottoms are trimmed of their roots when initially cleaned up from the garden for winter storage. However, we like to cut a micro slice off the bottom before shipping to ensure there is no hidden rot in your dahlia tuber. This doesn't affect growth, and is just another precaution we take for our customers.

My tuber has weird little, rough, bumps on the skin... what are they?

Lenticels act like pores on the dahlia tuber. They develop to help wick moisture out of the tuber during an event with too much moisture (rainstorm or flood), and allow the dahlia to "breathe". They are totally normal, and while not the prettiest looking, won't affect your dahlia plant.

I accidentally broke the neck of my tuber! Help?!

Broken or "fractured" dahlia tuber necks are a fairly common whoops. Sometimes the necks can be so thin it's challenging not to snap them when digging or dividing. Unfortunately, 9 times out of 10 dahlia tubers with broken necks cannot be saved.

If you barely crack one, you can attempt to use blue painters tape or duct tape to save it. Wrap the neck of the tuber with tape and leave it on, forever. It will grow just fine (if the tape helps save the tuber), and offer the neck support through end of the growing season.

The tuber seems wrinkly or squishy, what's happening?

Wrinkly tubers indicate dehydration, most likely due to a dry storage environment. If when pressed, it still feels firm - you can try to save the tuber from further desiccation by planting it in lightly moistened dirt. Dahlia tubers are fighters, and they don't have to be pretty or perfect to grow.

Squishy tubers indicate rot, most likely due to too much humidity in storage. If the soft area is just a spot, you can try to save the tuber by cutting away the rot until you have a clean, starchy interior. Let this cut heal over, and either plant, or re-store in a lower humidity environment. Unfortunately, once your entire tuber has rot, there is no saving it.

My tuber has multiple shoots growing out, is that normal?

Absolutely! That means your tuber is vigorous and healthy.

However, if by "multiple" you mean 10+ shoots from a single tuber, all fused together (not able to slide a razor-blade between) and seem to be coming from a clump then you may have leafy gall. If you're not sure, share a photo in facebook groups or with the seller of your tuber for confirmation. I will say, 9.9 times out of 10, it's not gall :)

Where do the roots develop on a dahlia tuber?

Roots can develop body, as well as the crown.

GROWING DAHLIAS 101

Where is the best location for dahlia plants?

Choose a full sun area with 6-8+ hours of direct sunlight, sheltered from high winds, and well-draining, fertile soil.

Also, dahlia tubers/plants are best when kept out of a low spot, where water may pool during an unexpected weather event.

When should I plant dahlia tubers?

Dahlia Tubers can be planted after all threat of frost has passed. Typically from Mid-April until Early June, depending on your location and your climate. Dahlia's prefer a soil temperature of 60°F.

Visit The Farmer's Almanac to check your last frost date by zip code.

Can I grow dahlias in bags or pots?

YES! Dahlias can be planted in 1-2 gallon pots, all the way up to a 10 gallon pot per plant. Containers must have good drainage!

In 2024, we chose to grow all of our dahlias in 7 gallon grow bags, 1 tuber per bag. For more in-depth learning about our process, visit our instagram post: All About Grow Bags.

What type of soil is best for growing dahlias?

Dahlias grow best in loamy, well-draining, rich soil with a pH level of 6.5. to 7.

For heavy clay or sandy soil, amend the area with organic leaf compost, worm castings, or other aged, organic material. Planting a cover crop in the "off or pre-season" will also help break up the soil, and add more organic matter and beneficial microbes into the soil.

We highly recommend a soil test to truly pinpoint nutrient deficiencies and ensure you're getting the most out of your garden. Check with your local extension office or university for available options.

How do I plant dahlia tubers?

First, ensure your soil is gently moistened. When squeezed, the soil should stick together but not drip any water.

Next, dig a hole 6" deep and lay the dahlia tuber horizontally. If you can see the bud or sprout on the dahlia, plant it facing upwards. If not, do not fret, the dahlia sprout will grow upright on its own.

*Optional Step* Add a small sprinkle of Mykos and worm castings next to the tuber. This gives a little nutrient boost to the dahlia while the forming roots.

Lastly, cover the hole and lightly press soil. Be sure to add in a plant tag, stake or marker during this step too!

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not fully water again until the first sprout appears, as too much water without roots, will lead to rot.

Should I add any fertilizer?

Fertilizer largely depends on your soil.

As a general rule of thumb, apply a balanced fertilizer early in the season (10-10-10), and taper to a lower-nitrogen product once blooms start forming. Too much nitrogen mid-season can lead to more leaf growth and less blooms.

How often should I water dahlias?

Newly planted tubers should not be watered much (if at all) until they've sprouted. If your soil becomes very dry, water gently. Too much water without root development, and your tuber will rot.

Overhead or drip, dahlias need deep water to reach their roots, but not stay soggy. Avoid consistent overwatering, which leads to tuber rot. Frequency per week depends on your zone and weather. Our normal in Zone 5a is every other day for temps between 70-80°F.

Do dahlia plants need to be staked?

Dahlias need support, as many reach heights between 4 to 6 feet, and even up to 8+ feet!

How you stake is personal preference. We like using T-posts (inserted at planting time) with bailing twine, wrapping every 18 inches to support the dahlia as it grows.

Other options include bamboo rods, green garden stakes, cages, or wooden grade stakes. I would still highly recommend using bailing twine over other strings or yarn however, because of its strength.

How long do dahlias take to grow?

Dahlias take an average of 120 days to fully mature and produce tubers. Tuber production heavily varies with each variety.

Do I need to pinch my dahlia plants?

"Pinching" is the action of cutting off the main growth stem of a developing sprout to increase yield. For dahlias, pinching is best done when the plant has grown at least 4 sets of leaves, and is 12 to 16 inches tall. For pompom varieties, pinch when 5 leaf sets have developed.

Using a set of sanitized snips (or your fingers) break off the center stem right above the fourth leaf set. This will signal the dahlia to push lateral growth between each remaining leaf set, gifting you two to four times the blooms. Pinching also helps keep stems manageable size for bouquet use.

Please note, pinching plants will set the development time back a few weeks. We see this a minor trade for a large, vigorous, and healthy dahlia plant.

Are dahlias "cut and come again" flowers?

YES! One of the best perks of growing dahlias is their "cut and come again" nature. The more you harvest stems and trim dead heads (spent blooms), the happier they become... putting extra energy into tuber production, and encouraging a bounty blooms.

What are some common dahlia pests?

Pests are area and zone dependent.

The majority of dahlia growers battle insects like aphids, thrips, spider mites, grasshoppers, and Japanese beetles (which thankfully haven't made it to our area yet). Arbico Organics has a variety of products and information as well as beneficial insects for purchase. We LOVE adding ladybugs, lacewings, beneficial nematodes, and assasin bugs to our garden each season.

As far as critters go - your typical rabbit, mice and vole can cause damage to tubers. Deer also love munching on dahlia leaves. Control of these mammals come at individual discretion.

To combat both mammal and insect pressure, consider companion planting with alliums, marigolds, and other unpleasant tasting plants. You can also experiment with "trap crops" which attract insects away from your dahlias.

Another newer discovery is the study of BRIX levels (sugar levels) in plants. Listen to The No-Till Flowers Podcast episode here: The Magical Brix Number that Stops Pests with Dr. Tom Dykstra

I've heard all sorts of things about dahlia virus, what is it?

Just like humans, dahlias are susceptible to virus. Once sick however, the virus attaches to the plant tissue and remains in the dahlia causing vein clearing, stunted growth, yellow necrotic spots, and discoloration. Currently, there is no cure.

Virus is transported through piercing or sucking mouthparts of insects, and transferred via unsanitized snips during harvest and tuber division. Think plant juices coming in contact with other plant juices. Virus is not transported through soil.

The virus issue is not just for dahlias, thousands of other plants also carry the same viruses that affects dahlias. Yes, virus can come from an aphid on another plant and spread it to your dahlia.

The American Dahlia Society has spent thousands of dollars on trying to understand virus, specifically Dahlia Mosaic Virus. Their recent findings concluded 87% of dahlias sampled (even healthy looking, vigorous plants) had at least one virus.

If you're interested in testing your garden, at-home kits can be purchased through Agdia, but note they are costly.

Here's our take. We live in an always moving, growing, and ever evolving climate. Your plant can test negative, and be bitten by an infected aphid the next day. Maintaining perfectly clean stock is challenging, expensive, and nearly impossible given all of the current data available. However, that doesn't give us a free pass to not care.

At Golden Hour Gardens, we follow ADS guidelines by culling suspicious looking plants and sanitizing snips in a 10% bleach solution for two full minutes between plants when trimming, harvesting blooms, and dividing tubers. We also minimize pest pressure by releasing beneficial insects multiple times throughout the season and applying organic pest control solutions when needed.

Our farm is inspected by the Montana Department of Agriculture every growing season, and passes with flying colors. We're committed to do our part in maintaining healthy plants, while being realistic about current virus statistics and solutions.

Fear does not belong in the garden, so regardless of viral chance, we will keep growing and sharing these beautiful blooms for future generations.

Where are the best places to buy disease free dahlia tubers?

Yes, dahlias can contract diseases too. You may have heard of leafy or crown gall. Both are bacterial diseases that are transferred via soil, plant material, or tools. They are truly terrible, and can remain in the soil for years.

If you're looking to avoid gall contamination, stay away from big box stores, and dutch import tubers from larger online sources. Harvest methods, quality control slips, and disease issues are more common when growing on a massive scale.

We LOVE supporting SMALL FARMS + other family run flower businesses. Every single new variety we purchase is directly benefitting another hardworking, farming family. Choices can become overwhelming when shopping small, so we use word of mouth and the Dahlia Addicts Supplier List to help direct our search.

Shopping small is a rewarding in both plant health + ethics.

END OF SEASON CARE

Do I need to dig up my tubers?

If you live in Zones 7-3, dahlia tubers risk rotting in ground due to the wet winter climate and freezing temps. Plants can be dug, dried to touch, and stored in a dry, dark area between 40-50°F.

Zones 8-10 do not require winter storage.

What is the best way to dig dahlia tubers?

Note: Everyone does this step differently, and the process of digging and dividing is very personal and climate dependent. We are sharing what works for us, in hopes it helps others too.

First, let the frost nip your dahlia plants, then cut back the foliage leaving only the stalk.

Next, leave the tuber clumps in the ground to "eye up". During this time make sure the ground isn't soaked, and the stems can stay dry.

Lift the dahlia roots by using a pitchfork to loosen the soil around the clump, being careful not to puncture the tubers. If planted in bags, tip the bag sideways and gently stomp on the edges to loosen the soil.

Grabbing at the base, pull the stalk upward, then shake off excess dirt. At this time you can choose to wash your tubers off, or leave the dirt on and place directly in storage.

At Golden Hour Gardens, we wash our clumps and divide right away because remember... we let the tubers eye up in the ground before digging. This makes it easier to divide clumps and saves space during winter storage.

I live in zones 8-10, do I need to dig my tubers up?

No, you can leave them planted because the ground doesn't freeze during winter in zones 8+.

However, if you want to multiply your stock by dividing tubers that will require digging the clumps.

When should I divide my tuber clumps?

Dividing tuber clumps is very climate, and personal preference dependent.

We choose to divide directly after digging and washing. Some growers are too busy to dig and divide in one swoop, so they store with dirt on and do not divide until winter fully arrives.

There is no one size fits all on timing, so we highly recommend talking to other growers in your area or your local dahlia society on common dahlia dividing practices.

How do I divide dahlia clumps?

For this you really need a visual. Until I remember to take photos of this process, you can find videos on YouTube, or check out this post I particularly love, by Summer Dreams Farm on Dividing Dahlias.

What is the best way to store dahlia tubers?

Like dividing, storing dahlia tubers is also very climate and storage space dependent.

Storing in Zone 5a, where winters are -30°F and the air is very dry, is going to be very different than Zone 7a with higher humidity and temps.

Everything from storage mediums options like vermiculite, peat moss, pine shavings, and saran wrap to bins made of plastic, cardboard, paper, or mechanical means differ. There have been options and combinations that work for some, and completely fail others.

We highly encourage you to research what other growers in your area have had success with, and consider your own personal resources.

You should check on your dahlia tubers in storage once month through the winter... monitoring moisture levels and disposing of any rotten tubers.

When should I pull them out of storage for next year?

If you're hoping to clone plants by taking cuttings, we removed them from storage 2.5 months early, at the end of February. Be mindful of your indoor area space, as dahlias grow quickly and can easily become leggy without enough light.

If you're wanting to pre-sprout your tubers, we recommend 1 month early, which is April for us.

If you don't want to mess with the above, pull them out of storage before planting, once your ground has warmed to 60°F.

EXTRA DAHLIA RESOURCES

American Dahlia Society Website

A website for all things dahlia. Including an official online classification guide, plethora of growing advice, and updates on current research.

Click here to visit the ADS website.

Our Favorite Dahlia Books

This beautifully compiled book is responsible for triggering my dahlia addiction, Discovering Dahlias by Erin Benzakein. The color-coded collection in the back of the book completely did me in.

As much as it pains me to promote Kristine Albrecht after the royalty debacle, her wealth of dahlia knoweldge is undeniable. The book, Dahlias: Seed to Bloom answered many questions in my dahlia growing journey, with photos to match.

While not a book, Galena Berkompas of @MicroFlowerFarm on Instagram has been a mentor to me through social media and shares incredible insight into her farm and business. Galena also hosts online classes and workshops, of which I've taken - and contributed in Kristine's book above.

Dahlia Addicts Website

View Dahlia Addict.com at your own risk, as we are not responsible for blown budgets and out of control wishlists due to this website.

Ps. Paying the $5.99 annual fee is totally worth it. You're welcome ;)

Join Your Local Dahlia Society

Find community and connection locally. Visit the ADS Societies page to find a group near you!

If you live in Montana, join Dahlia Growers of Montana facebook group for event updates & to meet nearby dahlia friends.

Facebook Groups (with a word of caution too!)

I know, I know. Really?! Facebook groups.

Yes. If you can overlook the drama, there is MUCH learning to be done by hearing from all sorts of folks with questions and answers. Some read the NYT or Wall Street Journal, I read dahlia groups on facebook for free. Lots of connection and support in these groups too!

My personal favorites: Dahlia Addicts, and Dahlia Growers.

Also, if you live in Montana, join Dahlia Growers of Montana facebook group for event updates & to meet nearby dahlia friends.